Bordatino alla Pisana (Tuscan Bean & Cornmeal Soup)
A trip to Tuscany is good for the soul—at least, it certainly was for me. From charming trattorias tucked away on cobblestone streets to sipping a quick espresso al banco alongside locals, it’s almost impossible not to fall in love with the rhythm of life here. But what really drew me to Tuscany were its traditionally vegan dishes, many of which have roots in Cucina Povera—the humble “kitchen of the poor.” Born out of necessity, this style of cooking turns the simplest, often overlooked ingredients into deeply rich, comforting meals.
I’ve tried my hand at Tuscan classics like Pappa al pomodoro and Ribollita, both clever ways to breathe new life into stale, leftover bread. But another Cucina Povera dish from stood out to me: Bordatino alla Pisana. Instead of bread, this dish uses polenta and blended beans as a thickener, creating something between a soup and a stew. Both together give it a creamy, almost velvety base, while whole cannellini beans add texture (and more protein) and the dark leafy greens bring a fresh, earthy depth. It’s simple yet wholesome, the kind of meal that warms you from the inside out. And in true Cucina Povera fashion, it’s a reminder that the best meals don’t require extravagance—just good ingredients, a little creativity and a little bit of ingenuity.
Table of Contents
1. What is Bordatino alla Pisana?
2. History of Bordatino alla Pisana
3. Ingredients You’ll Need
4. Method (Step-by-Step)
5. Why You’ll Love This Recipe
6. Other Italian Dishes You Might Like
7. How to Store
8. Recipe card
What is Bordatino alla Pisana?
Bordatino alla Pisana is a traditional Tuscan dish, specifically from Pisa. It is a thick, hearty soup made with polenta (cornmeal), beans (typically cannellini) and seasonal vegetables like cavolo nero, and it happens to be naturally vegan. The dish has humble origins, rooted in cucina povera, Italy’s “kitchen of the poor” that shows a resourcefulness for making flavorful, filling meals with simple, inexpensive ingredients.
What is the history of Bordatino alla Pisana?
Legend has it that Bordatino was originally a dish prepared on ships, where simple and long-lasting ingredients like dried beans and cornmeal were easy to store and cook. Since fresh bread was not always available at sea, polenta was used to thicken the soup, making it a nutritious and filling meal for sailors. Over time, the dish became a land staple, with Pisan cooks refining it into a winter essential.
Unlike its Livornese cousin, which sometimes includes seafood, this version sticks to its humble, plant-based roots.
Ingredients You’ll Need to Make Bordatino alla Pisana (+ Substitutions)
- Dried cannellini beans: Dried beans provide a richer flavor, but canned or jarred beans can speed up the process.
- Garlic: Whole garlic cloves add depth and aroma to the soup.
- Sage: Gives the soup a comforting, earthy flavor. If you don’t have sage, rosemary can be a good substitute.
- Extra virgin olive oil: Used for sautéing and drizzling at the end for extra richness.
- Onion, carrot, and celery (soffritto): These form the flavor base of the soup. Don’t skip them for that traditional Tuscan taste.
- Cavolo nero (Tuscan kale): The star green of this soup. If unavailable, substitute with regular kale, Swiss chard or leafy greens of your choice.
- Chili flakes: Add a little heat to balance the richness of the soup.
- Freshly ground black pepper: A simple but essential seasoning to taste.
- Tomato paste: Adds a hint of umami and depth.
- Coarse polenta: Thickens the soup and gives it a creamy, hearty texture. Can be left out for a lighter soup.
How to Make Bordatino alla Pisana (Step-by-Step)
Soak the Beans. Soak the dried cannellini beans with salt in water overnight.
Cook the Beans. The next day, drain and rinse the beans. In a large pan, add the beans along with fresh water. Peel and add the whole garlic cloves and sprigs of sage. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, then reduce heat and simmer, with the lid slightly ajar, for about 1 hour or until the beans are tender. Alternatively, cook with the garlic, sage and just 1l of water for around 10 minutes in a pressure cooker. Remove the sage, then drain the beans and garlic but keep the cooking liquid.
Sauté the Vegetables. With about 25 minutes left for the beans, heat the olive oil in a casserole dish over medium-low heat. Peel and dice the onion, carrot, and celery and add them to the casserole as you go.
Strip the leaves off the cavolo nero, dice the stalks, and add them to the pot along with chili flakes, black pepper, and the remaining salt. Cook for 10-15 minutes, until the vegetables soften. Meanwhile, chop the cavolo nero leaves into strips.
Prepare the Bean Blend. Transfer a quarter of the beans with the cooked garlic and around 250ml of the bean cooking liquid to the jug of an immersion blender and blend until smooth. Then measure the remaining cooking liquid and add enough fresh water to reach 1.25l.
Combine and Simmer. Add the tomato paste to the casserole, stirring to incorporate.
Add the chopped cavolo nero leaves, the blended beans, the remaining cooked beans, and the liquid.
Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.
Add Polenta. Slowly sprinkle in the polenta, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Cook uncovered for 1-2 minutes until the polenta is soft.
Turn off the heat and let the soup sit, covered, for 5 minutes to thicken further.
Serve. Divide the soup into bowls and finish with an extra drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of black pepper.
Bordatino alla Pisana FAQs
Can I make this gluten-free? Good news, Bordatino alla Pisana is already gluten-free!
How thick should bordatino be? It’s meant to be creamy, with a consistency somewhere between a thick soup and soft polenta. If it thickens too much, simply add a bit of water or broth to loosen it up.
Can I make this ahead of time? Yes, and it’s actually better the next day! The flavors develop and deepen as it sits, so it’s perfect for making in advance. It does thicken further with time, so you’ll need to add a splash of water when reheating.
Can I use canned beans? Definitely! Canned or jarred cannellini beans work just fine. Jarred beans are already pre-seasoned, whilst canned beans are not. So make sure to add a little less salt when using jarred. You can skip the soaking and cooking steps for the dried beans if using canned/jarred ones.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Naturally vegan & gluten-free
- Rich, creamy, and comforting
- Budget-friendly
- Deeply rooted in Tuscan tradition
Other Italian Dishes You Might Like
- Pasta e Ceci: A wholesome pasta and chickpea stew
- Ribollita: One of Tuscany’s most famous dishes
- Biancomangiare: Almond milk turned into a Sicilian pudding
How to Store Bordatino alla Pisana
- Refrigerate: Store in an airtight container for up to 3-4 days. The soup will thicken—just add a splash of water when reheating.
- Freeze: It freezes well for several months. Thaw overnight in the fridge and reheat gently, stirring well.
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Bordatino alla Pisana (Tuscan Bean & Cornmeal Soup)
Equipment
- 1 Pressure Cooker, (I recommend Fissler Vitavit Premium 3.5l or larger), optional
Ingredients
- 320 g dried cannellini beans (or 2 x 570g jars or 3 x 400g cans, see note below)
- 2 ¼ tbsp salt (32g)
- 4 large garlic cloves
- 2 sprigs of sage
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (plus extra to serve)
- 1 large onion (200g)
- 1 carrot
- 1 celery stick
- 200 g cavolo nero
- ½ tsp chilli flakes
- ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper (plus extra to serve)
- 2 tbsp tomato paste (50g)
- 150 g coarse polenta
Instructions
- Soak the cannellini beans with 1 tablespoon (14g) of the salt in around 1.5l of water overnight.
- The next day, drain and rinse the beans and add them to a large pan with 2l of water. Peel and add the whole garlic cloves as well as the sprigs of sage. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, then reduce the heat and simmer with the lid left slightly ajar for 1 hour or until just tender. Alternatively, cook with the garlic, sage and just 1l of water for around 10 minutes in a pressure cooker. Remove the sage, then drain the beans and garlic but keep the cooking liquid.
- When the beans have around 25 minutes left, heat the olive oil in a casserole over medium-low heat. Peel and dice the onion, then dice the carrot and celery, adding them to the casserole as you go. Strip the cavolo nero leaves and set aside, then dice the stalks and add them to the casserole as well along with the chilli flakes, black pepper and the remaining 1¼ tablespoons (18g) of salt. Cook until the veg has softened (10-15 minutes).
- Meanwhile, chop the cavolo nero leaves into strips. Transfer a quarter (about 180g) of the beans with the cooked garlic and around 250ml of the bean cooking liquid to the jug of an immersion blender and blend until smooth. Then measure the remaining cooking liquid and add enough fresh water to reach 1.25l.
- Add the tomato paste to the casserole and give it a stir to mix it through, then add the cavolo nero leaves along with the blended beans, the cooked beans and the 1.25l liquid. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer covered for 20 minutes.
- Slowly sprinkle in the polenta, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Cook uncovered until the polenta is soft (1-2 minutes), then turn off the heat and leave to sit covered for 5 minutes, during which the soup will thicken more.
- Divide over bowls and serve with an extra drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of black pepper.
Notes
- The soup varies in thickness across Tuscany. For a looser version, add a little more water – just be sure to compensate with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- If you’ve made a thicker soup, leftovers will set relatively solid if left overnight in the fridge. This cold Bordatino can then be cut and grilled or fried – wonderful as a snack or starter!
- If using jarred or canned beans, simply start with Step 3. In Step 4, use your jarred or canned cannellini beans and fresh water instead of the cannellini cooking liquid. Jarred cannellini are often pre-seasoned, so make sure to add less salt (½ tsp per jar).
- Storage: Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3-4 days.