With the help of agar flakes, a plant-based gelatin derived from seaweed, you can turn pretty much any liquid into semi-solid pearls. This works especially well with balsamic vinegar, giving each bite a pop of bright tanginess. It’s fine to use agar powder instead of flakes. Where I am, flakes are more accessible, but the powder will most likely dissolve better and you won’t need to soak or strain the liquid.
Did you know that you can make tofu out of black beans? By extracting and heating the protein in legumes, you can change the protein bonds, causing them to firm up. Most of us have already experienced this process before when boiling an egg, turning the white from translucent to firm.
With shallots being available all year round, it’s easy to forget that they too are seasonal. And September is the month when British new season shallots kick into gear. So here we go! Shallots are also brilliant at adding complexity to a dish.
A quick word of caution. Homemade hemp seed tofu is not quite like soybean tofu. It makes a much denser and pastier tofu with a bitter flavour. Using the right amount of vinegar and seasoning it well before serving helps with the bitterness, but the texture is still very much a work in progress. Nonetheless, this tofu is an expression of what is possible with locally grown foods and takes some pressure of the much overused soybean.
I first came across fruit cheeses in Kylee Newton’s brilliant The Modern Preserver and this recipe is very much inspired by the methods described in her book. If you want to learn more about preserving food in its many flavoursome and creative ways, from jams to pickles and from vinegars to fruit cheeses, then let this book be a guiding hand in your kitchen.
One of summer’s delights is the availability of locally grown aubergines, in all their abnormal shapes and sizes, not adhering to commercial standard, but to nature’s guidance alone. The sight of these aubergines on a local farmer’s market beckons me to light up the barbecue and roast them whole, serving them with the simplest yet most powerful of all condiments, tahini and a homemade pesto.
There is a good reason why Dijon mustard first originated in the region of its namesake city. Here, Ancient Roman methods ensured that grapevines where grown alongside mustard, which would enrich the soil and provide essential nutrients such as phosphorus. The surplus of mustard seeds and the access to grapes and wine quickly led to the production of Dijon-style mustard.
Growing up in Germany, a great many weekends would start with a slice of bread, covered generously with quark followed by a spoonful of homemade strawberry jam. Quark is a type of dairy product that is almost like a very mild fresh cheese, if you imagined it strained, smoothened and instantly refrigerated. Its cold, soft texture makes it a refreshing base that perfectly carries a layer of jam. Rarely a weekend went by with my dad skipping this tradition and so it has forever burnt itself into my nostalgia of childhood.
There are few things as rewarding as making a homemade tomato sauce from scratch. The fragrance of the garlic gently frying in the oil, the scents of oregano and basil, the slow and satisfying blipping of the San Marzano tomatoes as they reduce. It is a process that encapsulates the joys of summer.
Fruit leather is an easy way to turn any leftover fruit into homemade (healthy) candy. By slowly evaporating all of the moisture, you are dehydrating and preserving the fruit.
This cheat’s sorbet is my favourite way to turn any fruit into a quick summer treat. It takes 1 ingredient and, once the fruit is frozen, it comes together in just 5 minutes. Unlike a sorbet, which is churned in an ice cream machine with a hefty amount of sugar to avoid the formation of ice crystals, this cheat’s sorbet only breaks down the frozen fruit, essentially creating a smoother & unsweetened granita.
There are few dishes as summery as a panzanella. Heirloom tomatoes, fragrant basil and, in this case, the sweet flavour of ripe peaches. This is by no means a traditional panzanella. Besides peaches, you also most likely wouldn’t find lentils in a Tuscan or Umbrian recipe, yet they do an amazing job at soaking up the dressing and juices of summer’s ripest fruits. Adding the grilled peaches adds an exciting contrast to the acidity of the tomatoes and the tangy dressing.
Pão de Queijo are small, gluten-free cheese breads from Brazil. Traditionally, they get their cheesy flavour not only from the addition of cheese, but also from the fermented starch, Polvilho Azedo, that is used to make them. Once we understand these ingredients, it becomes much easier to look around us and find alternatives that grow within our reach.
Black sesame seeds are not just white sesame seeds with the hull left on, they are actually a different variety. They have a rustic nutty, slightly bitter flavour that feels less rounded on the palette than the one of white seeds. From a health perspective, they are packed with more nutrients than their white counterparts.
Tofu is said to have originated in ancient China more than 2,000 years ago. Although the theories of its origin are debated, it is likely to have been an accidental discovery when a liquid consisting of soybeans was mixed with a coagulant such as acidity or calcium that would have caused the liquid to curdle.
One of my favourite ways to eat homemade chickpea tofu is this little twist. Panelle, in essence, is Burmese tofu spread out thinly and fried into crispy fritters. They are a traditional Sicilian street food from Palermo, where they are served in a bun with nothing else but a squeeze of lemon juice. Although not according to custom, I like to add a refreshing, tangy gremolata to cut through the textures and wake up the flavours.
Pão de Queijo is a traditional cheese bread from Brazil. The discovery of these breads dates back to the Portuguese colonisation of Brazil, when African slaves peeled, grated, soaked and dried local cassava roots to turn them into an edible flour. The flour, known as tapioca starch, is still used today in traditional Pão de Queijo recipes.
One of my fondest food memories in Italy was the discovery of the Nocciolino. It was in a small unassuming bar on a quiet street in Brindisi, where I first savoured the heavenly combination of an espresso with a scoop of hazelnut gelato. I had come to love affogato, a shot of espresso served with vanilla gelato, but the flavour of hazelnut together with a strong Italian caffè was unparalleled.
It feels curiously liberating to know that culinary classics like falafel can be made not just with chickpeas or fava beans, but in fact with most legumes. After all, most traditional dishes have always come from a place of necessity and availability, making use of what’s around but applying culinary wisdom that can be found in other parts of the world too.
15 minutes sun-dried tomato pasta with wholemeal radiatori.
These Sesame Noodles (Ma Jiang Mian) are a popular Taiwanese street food that are traditionally eaten cold amidst the hot and humid climate. In their simplicity, they achieve a perfect balance of sweet, tangy & nutty, creating a deep, rich and satisfying flavour that makes a perfect quick lunch. If you’re in a hurry, you can leave out the garlic and ginger, but taking the extra few minutes to peel and grate both into the sauce takes it to the next level.
Falafel has long conquered the culinary world as a flavoursome, naturally vegan, street food. By itself served with a simple tahini sauce, packed into a warm pita or served on salads, it makes a delicious showstopper of a meal. But as much as I loved having falafel out and about, I was never quite pleased when making it at home. It usually came out dense & dry, a texture that also seemed to drag the flavour of the herbs and spices into an inaccessible void. Over time, I’ve finally made a few changes that resulted in the crispiest and fluffiest falafel I have not only ever had at home, but that I have ever had, period.
15 minute Mushrooms & Beans on Toast
A quick vegan lunch served in just 15 minutes.
Did you know that you can make tofu out of any legumes? Most legumes are high in protein (around 20% / 20g per 100g). By extracting and heating them, you can change the protein bonds, causing them to firm up. Most of us have already experienced this process before when boiling an egg, turning the white from translucent to firm.Although this works with any legume (chickpeas, lentils, beans…), it’s slightly different with soybeans, which are even higher in protein (around 40%). In fact, they have enough protein for it to curdle, which allows you to filter and press it into firm tofu. With other legumes, we only coagulate the liquid, giving it a soft Burmese-style texture.You can of course also add spices or herbs to the strained liquid. Once ready, make sure to fry it long enough to get crispy golden edges all around for maximum flavour. It’s brilliant as a soft tofu replacer but can be used for classics like panisse or panelle. Either way, you probably have some dried legumes sitting on your shelf begging you to give it a go.
Kombucha is quite a wondrous drink. It is naturally sparking, slightly tangy and mildly sweet. You can flavour it with the seasons, from elderflower to Tarocco oranges and use it as a refresher during the sunnier days or the base of a cocktail in front of a crackling fire in winter. If you make it at home, it is virtually bottomless. All it takes is tea, sugar, the flavour of your choice and nature’s most genius ingredient, time, to make a new batch.
If you remember in time, you can soak the oats overnight to soften them, allowing them to blend slightly better. If you intend to use the oat milk for coffee, add a small dash of oil, which will help to emulsify the strained oat liquid and water to froth up. You could also soak a few nuts like cashews together with the oats, which naturally contain plenty of oil and will do the trick.
Not many arrivals in the veg world are as anticipated as the one of the British asparagus. As the first outside crop to be harvested each year in the UK, it truly celebrates the start of spring.
A vegan Saag Paneer, with a handful of wild garlic – my favourite way to use up the abundance of fresh spinach that spring brings along.
This is my vegan version of Olia Hercules’ Borscht to support her and Alissa Timoshkina’s #CookForUkraine movement. Join the movement, raise awareness and show your support. Every bit helps.
This is my version of Jamie Oliver’s Super Green Spaghetti. When I cooked alongside him during a TikTok Live Event, he challenged me to create a plant-based version of his recipe.
An easy way to make a delicious laksa-inspired soup.
Did you know you can use aquafaba (the cooking water left in a tin of chickpeas) just like egg whites? Mix it until stiff, fold in some melted chocolate and, voilà, you’ve got a super quick, plant-based mousse.
A vibrant green pasta sauce that makes a quick & delicious pasta sauce.
Vegan mashed potatoes with roasted garlic, olive oil and a crispy sage topping, with carbon-neutral potatoes.
Indian-Inspired Christmas Cauliflower with homemade daal.
Why use five shallots where a single onion will do? You, like me, might have disregarded shallots as that tedious member of the onion family that is just too small to bother with. But what they lack in size, they give back in flavour.
Get ready for the the European Youth Event 2021 and join the sustainability cook-along. This daal is a versatile guide to seasonal cooking. Swap the chard for peas in spring, aubergines in summer and squash in winter. Use fresh tomatoes instead of tinned when they are in abundance and use local legumes instead of green lentils to reflect what’s around you.
Just like the Sourdough Rye Bread, the focaccia is one of the easier sourdough breads to make. As the rye, it is also baked in a dish, meaning that you skip the more challenging stages of shaping it by hand, letting it proof in a basket and then placing it into your casserole.
Being raised in Germany, whole-grain rye bread, or Vollkornbrot/Roggenbrot, has always been a common sight at local bakeries. But growing up a fussy eater, I’ve never given it the credit it deserves. Dark rye flour is rich in minerals, vitamins and fibre and gives a deep, nutty flavour to the entire loaf. Pair this with scrambled eggs & chives, or smoked salmon & dill, or cultured butter & homemade jam, and you’ll quite quickly find rye bread becoming a staple in your home. If you have your own sourdough starter, it’s also surprisingly easy to make yourself. I first learned how to bake this bread through the wonderful E5 Bakehouse in East London. After a few changes and simplifications (but still very much inspired by their reliable recipe), I now arrived at the formula for a bread that makes a daily appearance on my breakfast table.
Toum is a Middle Eastern garlic sauce that is made by emulsifying garlic, lemon juice, oil & salt. The process is not too far from making mayonnaise, but instead of an egg yolk, it’s the properties of the garlic that emulsify it into a stable dip. It’s a dream come true for the ultimate garlic lover and goes beautifully with grilled veg, crispy potatoes or just as a dip with charred flatbreads.
Learning to bake your own Sourdough Bread is a journey towards food mindfulness. Take away the water and salt and suddenly sourdough is made with just one ingredient. Flour. The rest is a fine balance of time, knowledge and skill.